~ By: Rameshbhai P Bharkhada

Tucked away on the western coast of India, Gujarat is the roots of our forefather and birth place of our faith. The state continues to thrive under leadership of Modi with economic growth well above 10% while rest of world is trying to survive under credit crunch.

Lots of our Vanza bhandus in the UK have established their second home in Gujarat to escape the winter’s long dreary dark days and coldness. During months of November and December, the state is exhilarating with hoard of globetrotting non-resident Indians.

The land is famous for their warm-hearted spirit and birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi and Sardar Patel. Gujarat is also known for its rich historical and cultural heritage that date back several centuries. In Gujarat there are many archaeological sites to visit to relive moments of history, stroll on sunny beaches or retire back to the hills. There is something for everyone provided you accept to groom into their way of life and little bit of dirtiness.

Gujarat also has a rich history of over 4,500 years which is alive even today in its historical and archaeological monuments. Champaner, the world heritage site, offers a glimpse of the rich Mogul architecture. Lothal offers an unparalleled insight into the Harrapan civilization.

It is a land of religious minded people who have an intense faith in the God almighty. Hence has lots of temples; Somnath, the temple of Lord Shiva, and Dwarka, the holy abode of Lord Krishna, draw millions of devotees and visitors. Hilltop shrines like Ambaji, Palitana, Girnar, and Pavagadh offer a rich spiritual fare to pilgrims, while the Sun Temple at Modhera, a magnificent specimen of superb artistry, leaves them spellbound and filled with reverence.

Although I was born in Porbandar, we left India to prosper our lives in Nairobi in 1965. It was after 40 years again I step on the soil where I was born. I have no recollection of any memories apart from the school I went and the house we used to live. And yes of course, when I used to bunk off school, I either used to wonder off to chopati beach or Sudama Mandir, I don’t know why but if I think now its must be calmness and spirituality of these places that attracted me. Perhaps this is why, I still have such an immense interest in this sort of places.

It was March 2005 when I decided to take a trip to my birthplace and also pay respect to our ‘kur devi’ Harshad Mata. Pashottam Arjan Jethwa (mama) and Lila mami played a huge part in making our trip worthwhile. With their company and hospitality of taking us everywhere, my wife Jyoti and I had an amazing time.

Reign of Solankis and Waghelas: Rani-ki-Vau, Patan

Although we visited lots of mandirs and places of pilgrim, one place that captivated our heart was a visit to Rani-ki-Vau in Patan. This seven-storied step well ranks with Adalaj Vau near Ahmedabad.

Not many tourists visit this place as its tuck away in remote North West part of Gujarat, far away from other tourists’ area. You will not find much information in any tourist guide books although it is renowned world heritage site.

Rani-ki-Vau (Queen’s step well) was constructed in A.D 1022 during the period of Solanki rules by queen Udaymati. It is generally assumed, the queen built this well in memory of her husband Bhimdev, son of Mularaja.

Under the reign of Solanki’s and Waghela’s dynasty, the Gujarat state flourish with rich architectures and this ‘Vau’ is a prominent watermark of their architect. It is alleged that just before the Waghela dynasty was over thrown by Allauddin Khilji, the Sultan of Delhi, the ‘Vau’ was buried. The step well was buried for centuries and it was in 1960 that the archaeological survey came to know the existence of such valour ornamental sculpture.

The painstaking efforts of archaeological survey of India took 20 years to expose this hidden treasure of sculptural and architectural wealth and further renovation exercises was carried out before it became open to public in 1987.

The ‘Vau’ suffered damages in the past due to flooding of the river Saraswati and is now under the custody of archaeological survey of India as protected monument of national importance.

The ‘Vau’ measures approximately 64m in length, 20m wide and 27m deep. It was originally constructed of seven stories of which only five are now preserved and nearly 400 sculptures have survived out of the original estimated 800 sculptures, which comprise of Hindu Gods and Goddesses, apsaras and miscellaneous themes.

From the excavation of the west well it appears that the wall had been built of bricks and faced with stone. From this wall project vertical bracket in pairs, this supported the different galleries of the well shaft proper. This bracketing is arranged in tires and is richly carved

The step well has long stepped corridor descending down to the underground tank, it has four compartmental multi-storeyed pillared pavilions with circular draw well at rear end. The corridor walls, pillared pavilions and inner side of well are embroidered with fine sculptures of Vishnu (dasha avataras) as Varaha and Kalki, Bhairava, Ganesha, Surya, Kubera, Vishvarupa-Vishnu, Lakshmi-Narayan , Astadikpalas, depicting rhythm, vigour, beauty and various moods in stone.

The figure of lord Vishnu, asleep on the coils of the giant multi-headed serpent, is sculpture in prominent position in the central niche on the different levels of the well. Also various female figures have been depicted in poses of apsaras, nagkanya and yogini etc.

The archaeologists believed that there must be palaces and royal residences in the vicinity area, which used the well as a source for air cooling and are currently carrying study by excavating the nearby area.

Because this treasure of architecture was kept hidden from Mughal Empire, you will find most the sculptures are in their original condition unlike other sites either it been deliberately destroyed or used for target practice.

This place is worth a visit someone having interest in arts. Please note there were no official guides present on the site when we visited but it is worthwhile hiring a caretaker on site.